Die Wachau – jetzt weiß ich, warum dieses kleine Fleckchen Erde in Niederösterreich beidseits der Donau von der UNESCO zum Weltkulturerbe ernannt wurde: So viel prachtvolle Natur und Kultur in geballter Ladung erlebt man selten. Malerische kleine Ortschaften wie aus dem Bilderbuch, saftig grüne Wiesen und Wälder, mittelalterliche Burgen, Schlösser und Ruinen, ein breiter Fluss und einige zierliche Flüsschen, sanfte Hügel und weitläufige Bergketten, romantische Städtchen mit Kopfsteinpflaster, unüberschaubar vielen kleinen Läden und Lokalen, Kunstmeilen und Kunsthandwerk und natürlich: Weinhänge und Marillenbäume so weit das Auge reicht…
Ich habe mir einen langgehegten Wunsch erfüllt und ein paar Tage in der Wachau verbracht, zwischen Marillenblüte im April und Marillenernte im Juli. In einem wunderbaren Domizil, das ich auf booking.com gefunden habe: Die Residenz Wachau, ein 4-Sterne-Romantik-Hotel ins Aggsbach Dorf, direkt an der Donau gelegen, irgendwo zwischen Melk und Krems. Und dann bin ich auch noch in der Heidi-Suite gelandet, mit freistehender Badewanne, Himmelbett und Blick auf die Donau und auf Aggsbach-Markt gegenüber. Herz, was willst du mehr?
Viel zu kurz natürlich, die Zeit in dieser Grünoase. Gerade mal einen Ausflug nach Krems schaffe ich. Mit dem örtlichen Bus (W2), der zwischen Melk und Krems pendelt. Es ist angenehm, sich so gemächlich ans Ziel chauffieren zu lassen. Mit ausgiebig Zeit zum Schauen. Krems selbst ist unbedingt sehenswert. Zusammengewachsen mit Stein bildet es nun eine Doppelstadt, eine erlebenswerte Kultur- und Universitätsstadt mit bezaubernder Altstadt. Die obere und die untere Landstraße ziehen sich durch die City, großteils Fußgängerzone, in der es nur wimmelt von Cafes und urigen Gasthäusern, Geschäften, hübschen Innenhöfen. Die Gassen sind gepflastert, winden sich einen kleinen Hang hinauf. Dazwischen Kirchen und Kunstschätze. Auch die älteste Dame der Welt, die „Fanny vom Galgenberg“ soll mit ihren 32.000 Jahren hier hausen…
Die restliche Zeit verbringe ich mit Faulenzen am herrlichen Naturteich meiner Residenz, Lesen, Löcher in den Himmel starren und mit Spaziergängen am Fluss. Der Rad- und Spazierweg ist bestens ausgebaut, zieht sich der Donau entlang und gewährt wunderschöne Ein- und Ausblicke. Alles ist wohltuend sauber und gepflegt, es herrscht so viel Ruhe über allem, eine friedvolle, entspannte Stimmung. Es fällt mir schwer, nach ein paar Tagen wieder meine Sachen zu packen… hier hätte ich es schon noch um einiges länger ausgehalten.
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